Trans-Iberian

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Covering everything from the major news of the week and burning social issues, to expat living and la vida local, EL PAÍS’ team of English-language bloggers offers its opinions, observations and analysis on Spain and beyond.

Madrid Markets - Rural Meets Urban

Por: | 06 de julio de 2011

Dias de Mercado

I spent the greater part of yesterday at two very different types of Madrid markets. In the morning, I made my way over to the second edition of the “Días de Madrid” farmer’s market, which is now being held on the first Saturday of every month in the Recinto Ferial Casa de Campo. Open from 11:00 to 20:00, the idea behind this initiative is to promote the wealth of agricultural and gastronomic products that are produced right here in Madrid: fruits, vegetables, honey, cheeses and other dairy products, garbanzos, meats and an abundant variety of wines, among other things. Given the city’s on-going projects to turn traditional, neighborhood markets into gourmet food courts and specialty shops – I’ll get to this later – I admit that I went heavily armed with skepticism. However, I was more than pleasantly surprised. Thirty-five producers set up shop monthly in this rustic area of the Casa de Campo. Fruit and vegetable farmers from Fuenlabrada, Aranjuéz and other corners of the capital were selling impossibly large bunches of chard, leeks, onions and celery for only one euro per kilo, in addition to tomatoes, potatoes, plums, peppers, cucumbers and other summer vegetables direct from the farm. I bought some organic beef from Guadarrama and aged goat cheese from Torremocha. The ambience was fantastic: music playing, people wandering between stands tasting samples of breads, pastries, cheeses and even chocolate; cheerful vendors were putting in a good word for each other at every turn. Also for one euro, I bought an empty wineglass that was filled repeatedly at the many stands selling excellent wines from Madrid.

Laden with packages and still sipping an interesting white wine made with local Malvar and Moscatel grapes, I headed over to the Mercado San Antón in Chueca for lunch. Much like the wildly popular Mercado San Miguel, this newly re-opened “market” is more of a gourmet enclave of specialty shops and restaurants that are beautifully arranged around an airy atrium. On this day the place was thronged with tourists and fashionable people. The stands sell an impressive selection of produce, meats, seafood etc., but the prices are higher than at other local markets. There is little here that harkens back to traditional idea of the marketplace as a community hub where people from all echelons of society actually buy their food. I couldn’t help thinking about the original vendors at this neighborhood market, whose intimate stands are now replaced by specialty shops selling everything from hamburgers and fruit smoothies, to Japanese, Italian and Greek dishes. I worry that this transformation of Madrid’s markets might make them less and less accessible to the city’s neighborhoods, as many local markets give way to fewer chain supermarkets like the one now located on San Antón’s lower level.

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Authors (Bloggers)

Chris Finnigan is a freelance journalist based in Barcelona. He writes for Barcelona Metropolitan and is a book reviewer and reader for The Barcelona Review. He is a graduate of the London School of Economics. You can find him on twitter @chrisjfinnigan

Ben Cardew is a freelance journalist, translator and teacher, now resident in Barcelona after growing up gracefully in Scotland via Norwich. He writes for The Guardian, the NME and The Quietus, among others, on everything from music to digital media. You can find him on Twitter @bencardew

Fiona Flores Watson is a freelance journalist, guide and translator who has lived in Seville since 2003, and has been a writer and editor for more than 20 years. She writes for the Guardian, Telegraph and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. Originally from Essex, Fiona is also Consulting Editor of Andalucia.com and has her own blog, Scribbler in Seville. She has been contributing to Trans-Iberian since 2014 and tweets at @Seville_Writer

Jeff Brodsky is a freelance writer. He arrived in Barcelona in 2013 via an admittedly indirect route, living in Chicago, Arizona, Seville, Amsterdam, North Carolina and Madrid. Despite not having stepped foot in Seville for over five years, he still speaks Spanish with an Andalusian accent. Jeff’s writing has been published in newspapers and magazines in America and Europe.

Koren Helbig is an Australian freelance journalist and blogger enjoying a life of near-eternal sunshine in Alicante. She writes for publications in Australia, the United States and the United Kingdom, focusing on stories exploring smart and positive approaches to social issues. She hangs out on Twitter at @KorenHelbig and keeps a selection of her favourite stories at korenhelbig.com.

Julie Pybus lives in a small off-grid house on a hillside in Catalunya. She usually focuses on helping charities and social enterprises with their publications and websites, but has also written for The Guardian, Country Living and The Observer. Julie launched and runs a hyperlocal website which endeavors to increase understanding between the different nationalities in her area perelloplus.com. @JuliePybus

Paul Louis Archer is a freelance photographer, multimedia storyteller and artist educator. A cross-disciplinary worker, who endeavors to encompass the mediums of photography, audio design and writing. Born in Hertfordshire of an English father and Spanish mother. Based in the United Kingdom. @PaulLouisArcher

Vicki McLeod is a freelance writer and photographer. She has lived in Mallorca since 2004. Vicki writes about her beloved island for The Majorca Daily Bulletin, the only daily English language paper in Spain; produces regular columns for the Euro Weekly News, and articles for Spain-Holiday.com. Vicki runs PR strategies for several businesses in Mallorca and London as well as working on her own blogs and projects. She and her husband, Oliver Neilson, supply photo and text content for private clients via @phoenixmediamlr. She tweets at @mcleod_vicki.

Born in Newcastle upon Tyne and based in Barcelona, Alx Phillips writes about contemporary art, dance and theatre in a way that human beings can understand. For more previews, reviews, interviews and extras, check: www.lookingfordrama.com.

El País

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